Official Review: West of Jesus

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By: Steven Kotler
Even though I read this book a long time ago, it’s something that’s stuck with me for many years.

Out of nowhere, Steven Kotler got struck with Lyme disease which cost him everything. The sudden neurological damage was heartbreaking, as he had to write down simple instructions for how to live life, which included how to turn his computer on, a reminder to “wear socks”, and to “feed the dog- the furry thing sitting next to your feet”. Kotler says that having Lyme disease was like the plague of amnesia that hit in the town in 100 Years of Solitude.

Kotler was not a natural-born surfer; he was born in Chicago. But after spending years in bed with Lyme disease, Kotler needed something to believe in. When he went to Mexico in 2003, he heard the legend about the Conductor- a fascinating tale that’s told around the world of the guy who controls the weather, conducting a “perfect storm” that creates ideal surf conditions (monstrous waves forming out of nowhere then turning flat and similar versions of unexplainable weather). A few years when he went to Indonesia, he heard about the Conductor again, which set him on a quest to find the science and belief of surfing. Using relevant sources and research, Kotler does a great job of showing how surfing is spiritual, science behind the weather and how powerful the ocean is.

This is a well-written and charismatic account of rogue waves, the power of belief, fixed logic and unexplainable things. I’ve seen critics that are deeply rooted in a certain religion be completely turned off by this book, but it’s for anyone who has an interest in philosophy, surfing and has an open mind.